How to Fertilize Money Plant for Faster Growth

Does Money Plant Actually Need Fertilizer?

Money plant — Epipremnum aureum, commonly called pothos or devil's ivy — is often described as a "low maintenance" plant, and in terms of fertilizer it genuinely is. It can survive for years in the same pot with little or no supplemental feeding. This resilience is one reason it is so popular with beginners and busy plant owners.

However, "survive" is very different from "thrive." A money plant that receives no fertilizer for extended periods will grow slowly, produce smaller leaves, lose leaf variegation, and eventually show signs of nutrient deficiency including yellowing of older leaves, pale green colouration, and stunted new growth. The plant redirects its limited resources toward survival rather than new growth.

Fertilizer provides the three primary macronutrients — nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium — along with secondary nutrients and trace elements that fuel everything from root development to leaf pigmentation. When a money plant has adequate nutrients alongside proper light and water, the difference in growth rate and foliage quality is remarkable. Leaves grow larger, vines extend faster, colours deepen, and the plant has stronger natural resistance to pests and disease.

The good news is that money plants do not need complex or expensive feeding regimes. A straightforward liquid fertilizer applied at the right dilution and the right frequency during the growing season is all most plants need.

Understanding NPK: What Your Money Plant Needs

Every fertilizer label shows three numbers representing the percentage by weight of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) in that order. Understanding what each does helps you choose the right product.

Nitrogen (N) — for lush green leaves

Nitrogen is the primary driver of foliage growth and green colour. Money plants are grown almost entirely for their attractive trailing foliage, so nitrogen is the most important macronutrient for them. A fertilizer with a slightly higher nitrogen number encourages the rapid leaf production and deep green colouration that makes a money plant so visually appealing. Nitrogen deficiency shows up as pale, yellowing leaves — particularly the older lower leaves — and a general slowing of growth.

Phosphorus (P) — for root development and energy

Phosphorus supports root growth, energy transfer within the plant, and flowering. For money plants grown purely as foliage plants, phosphorus is less critical than nitrogen, but it remains important for maintaining a healthy root system. A good root system allows the plant to absorb all other nutrients more efficiently. Phosphorus becomes more important when propagating cuttings, as it encourages faster rooting.

Potassium (K) — for overall plant health and stress resistance

Potassium regulates water movement within plant cells, strengthens cell walls, and supports the plant's immune system against disease and environmental stress. It helps the plant tolerate temperature fluctuations, resist pests more effectively, and recover from damage. Potassium deficiency typically shows as brown or scorched leaf edges and increased susceptibility to pests.

Recommended NPK ratios for money plant

A balanced fertilizer with equal NPK — such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 — is the simplest and most widely available option and works well for money plants. For even better foliage results, look for a fertilizer with a higher first number (nitrogen), such as a 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer (like 15-5-10 or 12-4-8). These formulations are sometimes labelled as "foliage fertilizer" or "tropical houseplant fertilizer."

Types of Fertilizer: Liquid, Granular, Slow-Release and Organic

The form of fertilizer you choose affects how quickly nutrients are available, how easy it is to control dosing, and the risk of over-fertilizing. Each type has advantages for indoor money plant care.

Liquid fertilizer — the best choice for most growers

Liquid fertilizers are dissolved in water and applied directly to the soil during watering. They deliver nutrients immediately to the root zone and are easy to dilute precisely. Because they are applied with every (or every alternate) watering, you can adjust the dose rapidly if you see any signs of over-fertilization. Liquid fertilizers are the most popular choice for indoor potted plants for these reasons.

Most liquid fertilizers are sold as concentrated liquids that you dilute before use. Common brands sold in India include Multiplex, Dr. Bacto, and generic houseplant concentrates from nurseries. International brands like Miracle-Gro All Purpose liquid and Schultz Plant Food are also widely available online. Always dilute liquid fertilizers to at least half the manufacturer's recommended dose — money plants in pots have limited soil volume and are sensitive to salt build-up from concentrated feeds.

Granular fertilizer — convenient but harder to control

Granular fertilizers are sprinkled onto the soil surface and dissolve gradually with watering. They are easy to apply and do not require mixing. However, they are harder to control than liquid fertilizers — once applied, you cannot remove or dilute them if you have used too much. Granular fertilizers also tend to stay near the surface rather than reaching the deeper root zone immediately. For money plants, granular fertilizers are acceptable for occasional feeding but are less ideal than liquid formulations for precise nutrient management.

Slow-release fertilizer pellets — very low maintenance

Slow-release fertilizer pellets (such as Osmocote) are coated granules that release nutrients gradually over 3 to 6 months, activated by water and temperature. They are extremely convenient — apply once and forget about fertilizing until the dose expires. For money plants in low-light indoor conditions, slow-release pellets work well as a baseline feeding approach. The limitation is that you cannot easily increase or decrease the nutrient supply if the plant shows signs of over- or under-feeding.

Organic fertilizers — gentle and safe for long-term use

Organic options include compost tea, liquid seaweed extract, fish emulsion, worm castings dissolved in water, and diluted banana peel water. These release nutrients more slowly than synthetic fertilizers and are far less likely to cause fertilizer burn even if slightly over-applied. They also support soil microbiology, which benefits the plant in indirect ways over time. The trade-off is that some organic fertilizers have strong odours (especially fish emulsion), and their nutrient content is lower and less predictable than synthetic options.

For indoor money plants, liquid seaweed extract is one of the most popular organic options. It is nearly odourless, safe to use frequently, and provides a broad spectrum of trace minerals alongside growth-stimulating hormones (cytokinins and auxins) that synthetic fertilizers do not provide. Apply it at half to full label strength every 2 to 3 weeks during the growing season.

The Money Plant Fertilizer Schedule: Season by Season

Money plants follow a clear seasonal growth pattern that should govern your fertilizing schedule. Feeding at the wrong time of year is almost as problematic as feeding at the wrong dose.

Spring (March–May): Ramp up feeding as growth resumes

Spring is the transition from winter dormancy to active growth. As day length increases and temperatures rise, money plants wake up and begin pushing out new growth rapidly. This is when fertilizing makes the biggest difference. Begin feeding with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength every 3 to 4 weeks in early spring. By mid-spring, once you can see consistent new leaf production, increase to every 2 weeks.

Summer (June–August): Peak feeding season

This is your money plant's most active growth period and the time when feeding has the greatest impact on plant health and appearance. During summer, fertilize every 2 weeks with a balanced or nitrogen-rich liquid fertilizer at half the recommended dose. Water the plant thoroughly before applying fertilizer to ensure the roots are hydrated and the fertilizer is absorbed evenly. Never apply fertilizer to dry soil — concentrated fertilizer solution hitting dry roots can cause burn.

In India, the summer period overlaps with the pre-monsoon heat from April to June, when money plants often show accelerated growth. This is the ideal window for feeding to encourage the lush trailing growth that makes these plants so attractive.

Monsoon (July–September, India-specific): Reduce or pause

During India's monsoon season, ambient humidity is high, evaporation slows dramatically, and soil stays moist for longer periods. Plants often slow their growth slightly in response to reduced light from cloud cover. Reduce fertilizing to once every 4 weeks during monsoon and always check that the soil has partially dried before applying any liquid fertilizer. Applying fertilizer to waterlogged monsoon soil that is already taking weeks to dry is a recipe for fertilizer burn and root problems.

Autumn (October–November): Taper off

As days shorten and temperatures begin to fall, money plant growth slows perceptibly. Reduce fertilizing to once a month in autumn, using half-strength solution. Watch your plant — if it is no longer producing new growth, stop feeding entirely. Fertilizer applied to a plant that is not actively growing simply accumulates as salt in the soil rather than being absorbed.

Winter (December–February): Stop fertilizing

Do not fertilize money plants in winter. Growth slows significantly or stops completely. Roots absorb water and nutrients much more slowly in cool conditions. Any fertilizer applied during winter will not be used by the plant and instead builds up as harmful salt deposits in the soil. These salt deposits damage fine root hairs and can cause the yellowing and brown tips that people often misdiagnose as disease or pest damage. Resume fertilizing only when you see new growth emerging in spring.

How to Apply Fertilizer to Money Plant: Step by Step

Proper application technique is as important as choosing the right fertilizer. Even the best fertilizer can harm your plant if applied incorrectly.

Step 1: Water the plant first

Always water your money plant with plain water before applying fertilizer. Moist soil ensures that the fertilizer solution is absorbed evenly throughout the root zone rather than pooling in dry pockets or being immediately wicked up in a concentrated bolus near the surface. Applying fertilizer to dry soil is the most common cause of fertilizer burn in potted plants.

Step 2: Prepare the fertilizer solution

If using a liquid concentrate, measure carefully and dilute to at least half the manufacturer's recommended strength. For a standard 5 ml per litre recommendation, use 2.5 ml per litre. It is better to use a slightly weaker solution more frequently than a concentrated solution less frequently. Weak, frequent feeding is kinder to roots and more consistent for growth.

Step 3: Pour around the base of the plant

Pour the diluted fertilizer solution evenly around the base of the plant, reaching all areas of the pot surface. Do not pour it in one concentrated stream in the centre — this feeds only one patch of roots. Apply until you see a little coming through the drainage holes. This ensures the fertilizer has reached the full depth of the root zone.

Step 4: Do not fertilize the leaves

Money plants can absorb small amounts of nutrients through their leaves — this is called foliar feeding. However, applying concentrated fertilizer solution to leaves will burn them. Avoid splashing fertilizer on the foliage. If you accidentally do, wipe the leaves with a clean damp cloth immediately.

Step 5: Record the date

Keep a simple note on your phone or a sticky note on the pot recording when you last fertilized. This is especially helpful for avoiding accidental double-feeding and for tracking whether your schedule is working.

Signs of Over-Fertilization: What Fertilizer Burn Looks Like

Over-fertilizing is more common than under-fertilizing in indoor plant care, partly because new plant owners assume that "more is better." Fertilizer burn from excess salts can be serious and sometimes fatal if not addressed quickly.

Leaf symptoms of fertilizer burn

The first visible symptom is usually brown or crispy leaf tips, particularly on the newest growth. This progresses to brown or scorched-looking leaf margins (edges). In severe cases, entire leaves may turn brown and papery, beginning from the outside and progressing inward. The browning from fertilizer burn typically looks different from the yellowing caused by overwatering — it is drier and crispier rather than soft and wet.

Soil symptoms

A white or pale yellow crust forming on the soil surface or on the outside of terracotta pots is a clear indicator of fertilizer salt build-up. This crust is composed of mineral salts left behind as water evaporates. It does not mean the plant is immediately in danger but is a clear signal to flush the soil and reduce fertilizing.

Root symptoms

If you suspect fertilizer burn has progressed to root damage, gently lift the plant from its pot. Fertilizer-burned roots appear brown and dry rather than the soft, dark brown of root rot. Damaged root tips are the first to die, reducing the plant's capacity to absorb water. This can paradoxically make the plant look underwatered even when the soil is adequately moist — the roots simply cannot absorb water effectively any more.

How to treat fertilizer burn

Act quickly at the first signs. Water the plant very thoroughly, allowing water to flush through the pot and drain completely. Repeat this flushing 3 to 4 times in quick succession. This dilutes and washes out excess fertilizer salts from the soil. After flushing, do not fertilize again for at least 6 to 8 weeks. Allow the plant to recover and produce new growth before resuming feeding at a lower dose. Trim any brown-tipped leaves back to healthy green tissue using clean scissors.

Signs of Under-Fertilization: Nutrient Deficiency in Money Plant

While over-fertilizing is more dramatic in its effects, chronic under-fertilizing quietly prevents your money plant from reaching its potential. Identifying nutrient deficiency helps you diagnose whether fertilizing more will actually help or whether another factor is responsible.

Nitrogen deficiency: pale, small, slow-growing leaves

The most common nutrient deficiency in money plants is nitrogen deficiency. Symptoms include overall pale green colouration of the foliage (rather than the deep, rich green of a well-fed plant), leaves that are smaller than usual, and a general slowing of vine extension. Older leaves may yellow and drop while newer growth remains small. Increasing the frequency or dose of a nitrogen-containing fertilizer typically resolves this within 4 to 6 weeks.

Iron and magnesium deficiency: interveinal chlorosis

Iron or magnesium deficiency causes interveinal chlorosis — the leaf tissue between the veins turns yellow while the veins themselves remain green. This pattern is distinctive and different from nitrogen deficiency, which causes a more uniform pale yellowing. Magnesium deficiency appears on older leaves first; iron deficiency usually starts on the newest growth. Correcting pH (money plants prefer 6.0 to 6.5) often resolves iron deficiency more effectively than adding more iron, since iron becomes unavailable to plants in alkaline soil.

Potassium deficiency: brown leaf margins and reduced disease resistance

Potassium deficiency shows as brown or scorched-looking leaf edges (not tips — edges) and can look similar to fertilizer burn. The plant may also become more susceptible to pests and fungal disease. Because potassium deficiency and fertilizer burn can look similar, examine your feeding history before diagnosing and treating.

Fertilizing Money Plant Growing in Water

Money plants grown in water (hydroponically, in a vase or bottle) have no soil nutrient reserves to draw on at all. They depend entirely on what you add to the water for their mineral nutrition. This makes fertilizing more important for water-grown money plants than for soil-grown ones — but the approach differs significantly.

Use a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to one-quarter strength (not half strength) every 3 to 4 weeks. Always change the water completely before adding fertilizer, as old water accumulates decomposing organic matter, algae, and dissolved minerals that interact unpredictably with fertilizer. Add the diluted fertilizer to the clean fresh water.

Do not be tempted to add more fertilizer thinking the plant needs "more" in water than in soil. Concentrated fertilizer in standing water has nowhere to flush and will damage the roots rapidly. Less is always better for water-grown money plants.

Homemade Fertilizer Options for Money Plant

Several household items can provide gentle, low-risk nutrition for money plants. These are not replacements for a proper balanced fertilizer but can supplement feeding between regular applications.

Banana peel water

Soaking a banana peel in water for 24 to 48 hours creates a dilute solution rich in potassium and some phosphorus. Strain out the peel and use the water to irrigate your money plant every 2 to 3 weeks during the growing season. It is not a complete fertilizer but provides a useful potassium boost that supports general plant health. It is very low risk and also reduces kitchen waste.

Diluted fish tank water

If you have an aquarium, the water removed during partial water changes contains dissolved fish waste rich in ammonia and nitrogen compounds. Diluted aquarium water makes an excellent natural fertilizer for money plants. Do not use it undiluted — mix one part aquarium water with three to four parts plain water. This is gentle enough for every watering during the growing season.

Worm casting tea

Dissolve a small amount of worm castings in water, let it sit for 24 hours, then strain and use the liquid to water your money plant. Worm castings are one of the richest, most complete organic fertilizers available and this method produces a gentle liquid feed that is almost impossible to over-apply.

Diluted cow dung solution (vermicompost liquid)

In Indian gardening, diluted vermicompost liquid is widely used and excellent for money plants. Dissolve a small amount of vermicompost in water, stir well, let sediment settle, and use the clear liquid as a fertilizer. This provides a broad spectrum of nutrients and beneficial soil microorganisms. Apply every 3 to 4 weeks during the growing season.

Fertilizing Newly Repotted Money Plants

This is one of the most common mistakes in money plant care: fertilizing a plant immediately after repotting. Freshly repotted plants have damaged root hairs from the disturbance of repotting. Applying fertilizer at this stage exposes those damaged roots to concentrated mineral salts when they are at their most vulnerable. This often causes additional root damage and sets the plant back significantly.

Most commercial potting mixes already contain slow-release fertilizer pellets or a starter nutrient charge sufficient to feed the plant for 4 to 8 weeks after potting. Let the plant establish in its new pot and wait for visible new growth before resuming regular fertilizing. The standard guideline is to wait 4 to 6 weeks after repotting before fertilizing.

Fertilizing Newly Purchased Money Plants

Plants from nurseries are often in heavily fertilized growing media optimized for quick growth in commercial nursery conditions. When you bring a new money plant home, it will typically take 4 to 8 weeks to adjust to your home's light levels, humidity, and temperature. During this acclimatisation period, the plant is not actively growing and will not benefit from additional fertilizer.

Do not fertilize a newly purchased money plant for the first 6 weeks. Focus instead on getting the light and watering right. Begin fertilizing only once the plant shows signs of active new growth in its new environment — emerging new leaves at vine tips are the clearest indicator that the plant has successfully established and is ready to be fed.

Fertilizing During and After Pest Treatment

A money plant under attack from mealybugs, spider mites, or other pests is already stressed. Its root function is often compromised and it is diverting energy toward defense rather than growth. Fertilizing a plant during active pest infestation typically makes the problem worse rather than better — healthy lush new growth is actually more attractive to certain pests like aphids and mealybugs than mature leaf tissue.

Stop fertilizing at the first sign of pest infestation. Treat the pest problem first. Once the infestation is resolved and the plant has had 3 to 4 weeks to recover, you can resume regular feeding. The exception is a very mild, low-concentration liquid seaweed feed, which is gentle enough to provide some nutritional support without exacerbating the stress the plant is under.